Two specials during happy hour at 678 Hawaii include a Happy 678 Combo and a seafood soup. –George F. Lee / glee@staradvertiser.com
BY ELIZABETH KIESZKOWSKI / ekieszkowski@staradvertiser.com
I’ve been craving Korean yakiniku for months, so I’m not sure what kept me from trying 678 Hawaii. That turned out to be an oversight, as this restaurant hits the spot and — bonus! — offers a late-night happy hour that coincides with my pau hana, since I work late.
678 HAWAII1726 Kapiolani Blvd. Happy hour |
Lucky for me, 678 turns on its happy-hour specials at 9:30 every night of the week and offers the discounted specials until closing. That really can help ease the pain of a long Monday or Tuesday night.
The restaurant is also a viable spot for late-night weekend dining as it’s open till 1 a.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. In its location across the street from the Hawai’i Convention Center in the spot formerly occupied by Yakiniku Migawon, it’s pretty central, too.
YAKINIKU is one of my favorite dishes. One, I like meat. Two, I like barbecue. Three, it’s fun to cook your own, especially since the meat is in bite-size pieces, allowing for a sense of fun as you jostle with your dining partner for the cooking utensils or a prime piece, work out whether a bite should be charred or rare, dipped in oil or hot sauce, or just popped into the mouth as quickly as possible.
The numbered name, 678, when translated to Korean, sounds like “fresh quality meat,” according to restaurant lore. The meat here is a lure — it’s specially sourced to be of high quality, and the beef, we’re assured, contains no hormones or antibiotics, raised in the U.S.
The short rib is offered “Kobe” style — well marbled and tender. “Only the best grade of fresh beef for you,” the menu assures.
We ordered the Happy 678 Combo, with thin-sliced brisket, the marinated Kobe-style short rib and outside skirt. This gave us a variety of thicknesses and tastes. I found it tasty, though I’ve become more accustomed to grass-fed beef with its stronger flavor, and appreciated the marinade, vinegar, kim chee and salted oils that embellished the meat.
The adjustable metal vent over the grill is quiet but works remarkably well. The grill has warming compartments around the center. During my visit the compartments were filled with kim chee, onion slices and corn topped with cheese that slowly melted as the grill did its job.
Other side dishes were also tasty, including a salad of sprouts and green onion topped with bright red spicy chili sauce, creamy mac salad, cucumber and lettuce to cool the heat.
The interior of the restaurant. –George F. Lee / glee@staradvertiser.com
THE RESTAURANT has a good-natured, contemporary setting. It’s not too fussy or too crowded with tables. The menu is easy to read and includes photos to help newbies decipher the offerings.
Serving bowls are all metal, providing a cool counterpoint to the heat of the grill and Korean spices. The waiters wear black and are friendly and helpful.
A note on those waiters: As a matter of practice, they will swoop in to set up your grill and cook the meat selections. I found this helpful, but some folks who have commented about the restaurant online were surprised by it. Just so you know, it’s not a reflection of your cooking prowess; it’s just the way this restaurant does it.
On my visit the waiters were most happy to explain an unfamiliar dish in the banchan selection (a salty cabbage soup in a clear broth — “Some people think it’s for washing hands,” the waiter told me cheerily) or answer other questions. So it should be no problem to say the word if you would rather do it all yourself.
The restaurant is part of a franchise owned by popular Korean comedian Kang Ho Dong, whose life-size likeness stands outside and whose picture is all over the menu and restaurant — even on the water bottles.
I sat near the window looking out at Kapiolani Boulevard and Kang Ho Dong’s image, and was amused by a handful of people who stopped to take a picture with it. Shoppers and skateboarders passing by also provided entertaining people-watching.
All in all, dining here was a charming experience, one I’m looking forward to repeating.