Restaurant Epic is in Chinatown; it’s a short walk for the downtown crowd. (Star-Advertiser photo by Cindy Ellen Russell)
BY STEVEN MARK / smark@staradvertiser.com
We thought we were prepared for our pau hana visit to Restaurant Epic, checking online for its happy-hour menu so that we could order quickly and efficiently. But that menu “is old, really old,” said chef Brian Chan as he greeted us upon our arrival just last week.
RESTAURANT EPIC1131 Nuuanu Ave. Happy Hour4:30-6:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays |
Chan changes his menu as frequently as every four months, and unless you have a really, really strong craving for a particular dish, it doesn’t seem to matter, as his cuisine consistently earns raves. Our visit was no different, as his latest happy-hour offerings were plenty satisfying for their variety and intrigue.
Restaurant Epic is right in the heart of Chinatown, a block from the Hawaii Theatre, so it’s a convenient walk from downtown, and parking wasn’t too bad at 4:30 p.m., which is when happy hour starts. The decor is modern and chic, with colorful but muted abstract paintings along the walls. The word “EPIC,” lit to an orange glow, adorns one wall, as if it were a flame lighting up a cave.
It feels more mainland than Hawaii, with perhaps the only hint that you’re in for a multicultural experience being the maneki neko (welcoming cat) sculpture on the frame above the small bar. But Chan likes to mix ethnic cuisines, and he makes some surprisingly good choices.
For example, one could imagine apple and walnuts working together nicely in a dessert, but with melted brie cheese, in a grilled quesadilla ($6), and then drizzled with sweet honey to add a slightly more viscous texture to its crisp-to-chewy range? The combination of flavors and textures worked together beautifully.
Asian Fish Tacos ($6), made with the catch of the day to ensure freshness, were also a delight. That day, they were made with mahi, cooked perfectly, with the outside crisp and the inside delicate and moist. The tacos came garnished with a sauce that added just enough sweetness but didn’t overpower the fish. You could taste the fish in this fish taco; a lot of places bury the fish so deep that you wonder why they bother.
We tried the Patty Melt, which seemed like an indulgence, with bacon wrapped around what was clearly high-quality beef, sauteed onions, house-made Thousand Island dressing and Swiss cheese. With a side order of cheddar-dusted “frites potatoes” — Epic has been singled out for its fries in other reviews — there was nothing more that a specialty burger joint could offer that would be more satisfying. Chan called this his “petite” patty melt; that seemed suited to the $6 price but didn’t do justice to the flavor.
We also had Lemongrass Steamed Clams ($7), which were perfectly done, and the Curried Chicken Potstickers ($5). I would have to say, as a lifelong potsticker eater, that I’d prefer crisper skins, but the flavor was good.
The staff was friendly, attentive and knowledgeable. When my colleague ordered an Alley Cat Amber — one of the featured beers being offered at happy hour that day — the waiter was careful to pour some, swish the bottle a little, then repeat the process, explaining that it was to ensure that taste-enhancing residues from the brewing process got into the glass — “and to make a nice head” on top.
Quesadillas stuffed with brie, apples and walnuts are $6 during happy hour. (Star-Advertiser photo by Cindy Ellen Russell)
Happy-hour beverage prices are easy to remember — they’re all $4, from beers to its specialty mojito and sangria, well martinis, well drinks and house wines.
The brew list has a nice variety, from Belgian, Japanese and mainland ales to a lager from Rome and a stout from the U.K. Bartender Alan Chang puts a few of them on sale at the happy-hour price every day.
For a reasonable price we left Restaurant Epic feeling quite full and satisfied.