Nobu Waikiki's blend of traditional Japanese with South American ingredients is evident in such dishes as Head On Shrimp Tobanyaki. --Star-Advertiser / 2011
NOBU WAIKIKI
Bright and delectable best describe the lineup here. Chef Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa’s signature style is in his execution of traditional Japanese dishes using South American ingredients, and the results surprise and enliven the taste buds.
A Big Island Heart of Palm salad, featuring grated strips of palm hearts topped with microgreens sprinkled with pink peppercorns and accompanied by a creamy vinegar-jalapeno dressing, is nearly as refreshing as a cool cocktail. The crisp yet hearty hearts are complemented by the peppery greens, and the freshness of both is brought forward by the acidic, spicy and lightly creamy dressing. Sheer artistry. Another Nobu specialty, Black Cod Saikyo Miso, is unlike any other miso butterfish I’ve tasted. While the creamy flavor of the cod was familiar, the firm texture of the butterfish was unique. The sweet flavoring of the sake and miso sauce was subtle and delicious.
The decor at Nobu Waikiki is gorgeous, with deep, earthy hues that reference a rustic Japanese aesthetic. Lantern-type fixtures and sea urchin-inspired chandeliers provide soft, warm lighting. Nobu makes fine dining for special occasions a memorable experience.
Also recommended: Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, Scallop Kushiyaki and the 14 Carrot (freshly juiced carrot ice cream served with five-spice carrot crunch, mango, lime zest and white chocolate “greens”).
Waikiki Parc Hotel, 2233 Helumoa Road, 237-6999, www.noburestaurants.com. Dinner, late night. $$$$
Nobu Waikiki's decor adds to a memorable fine-dining experience. --Star-Advertiser / 2011
JIMBO RESTAURANT
One thing I can say about Jimbo is that it’s consistent -consistently good. Jimbo Motojima, owner of this popular udon shop, makes his own smoky broth that some say rivals the best in Japan, as well as noodles prepared just right, soft with a touch of chewiness.
Patrons can enjoy their noodles with a wide variety of accompaniments. Kake Udon, described on the menu as “plain,” comes with fishcake and green onions. From there there’s udon in curry, udon topped with fried tofu, tempura chips, seaweed, veggies and more. A family favorite is Kamaage Udon, noodles presented in hot water with dipping sauce on the side, along with toppings of ginger, sesame seeds, tempura chips, green onion and lemon.
Even for gluten-sensitive folks like myself, Jimbo is a destination. I love the tonkatsu there. The thick pork slices are juicy and tender, and the panko crust crisp and light, never oily.
Top off a satisfying meal with green tea or vanilla ice cream brought in from Bubbies.
1936 S. King St., 947-2211. Lunch, dinner. $$
TANIOKA’S SEAFOOD & CATERING
Remember the song that rattles off a list of local food favorites? “I like my fish and my poi, ’cause I’m a big boy, pipikaula, lomi salmon, extra-large lilikoi …” Someone should write a song about Tanioka’s, which has enough offerings for 10 ditties, including an extensive poke selection, its famous fish patties and beloved fried chicken, and an array of musubi.
Snackers will love the boiled peanuts, crack seed and mochi, not to mention red velvet cupcakes. Only in Hawaii.
When we moved last year, Tanioka’s was my go-to place to feed the generous folks who helped us paint, install flooring and make our new place home. Day after day, we’d chow down on Tanioka’s musubi and fried chicken. It didn’t matter that we had to stand at the kitchen counter or sit on dropcloths next to power saws. The humble but tasty dishes added to the warm camaraderie.
Good memories are built on the kind of food Tanioka’s provides: basic and undeniably delicious. Now Tanioka’s is offering wedding catering. What better way to start a new life together?
Also recommended: spicy ahi bowl, fried chicken, Goteborg musubi, cone sushi, ahi patty, boiled peanuts.
94-903 Farrington Highway, Waipahu, 6713779, www.taniokas.com. Breakfast, lunch (takeout only). $
BERNINI
Bernini is a haven where you can take a deep breath and exhale a sigh of relief. You won’t find extremes here. Flavors are surely lively at Bernini, but they function with the proper intent: to highlight the food that’s being flavored. An example of this synergy between ingredients can be found in the antipasti carpaccio: A vibrant vinaigrette and capers add just the right spark to enhance the freshness of Nalo greens and pristine sashimi slices. Boscaiora, a pasta entree with porcini mushroom and house-made sausage, is dressed in a light cream sauce that adroitly balances the dish’s smokiness without burdening it with heaviness.
Partake of the restaurant’s offerings in an intimate, relaxed yet sophisticated setting of white tablecloths, soft lighting and attentive servers. One word of warning: Make reservations or you’re likely to wait or be turned away.
Also recommended: Roasted Mushroom Salad Topped with Parmigiano, Half Chicken Al Forno, Panna Cotta with Fresh Fruit and Wine Gelee.
1218 Waimanu St., 591-8400, www.berninihonolulu.com. Dinner (closed Mondays). $$$
–Joleen Oshiro , Honolulu Star-Advertiser food editor