Both tradition, change key to 3660′s success
By Joleen Oshiro / joshiro@staradvertiser.com
With vision, ambition, hard work and some luck, a chef could find himself spot-on trend, the “it” chef of the moment -a star. But staying popular with the public for the long haul, now that’s an entirely different kettle of fish.
Chef Russell Siu might have had his encounters with Lady Luck, but his longterm success at 3660 on the Rise isn’t one of them. Siu’s restaurant has been selected the 2012 Ilima People’s Choice Best Restaurant, his fourth win in a row.
Chef Russell Siu plates a dish of pasta with chicken and mushrooms at 3660 on the Rise, voted People's Choice as best restaurant. --Craig T. Kojima / ckojima@staradvertiser.com
What’s his secret?
“Tastes change over the years, so we try to keep up with those changes,” Siu says.
Nowadays diners are eating more fish and pork, so the restaurant has included more of both on the menu. Siu says he’s trying out new kinds of fish, such as halibut from Alaska, and is bringing in a variety from Australia. He said he’s also seeing interest in different cuts of meat, so he now offers such items as braised veal cheeks and hanger steak, cut from the cow or steer’s diaphragm.
“A lot more people can afford these. Prime cuts are so expensive,” he says.
Ironically, other factors that support his longevity are about not changing. Siu says it’s important to be consistent -in style, service and food quality.
“Folks can come in, hang out and enjoy themselves without us being stuffy or too pricey,” he says. “For some of them this is their second home. We keep the food simple so you can taste the center of the plate. There’s no 20 sauces.”
Siu says he has about a dozen cooks and 15 front-of-the-house workers, many of whom have been with him for most of the 20 years the Kaimuki restaurant has been open. This keeps service consistently high.
“Waiters are always on the floor, and we have runners bring out the food. We haven’t ever changed this and it works well for us,” says Siu. “The personality of the server is important. He or she must have a good temperament to deal with customers and be able to read a table correctly -when to talk, when not to talk, when to go over there, when to leave them alone. I’m fortunate to have good people working for me. The people make the business.”
As for the food itself, “It’s the same food today as you’ll get next week. We excel at being consistent.”
Siu and his kitchen staff change the menu every three to four months. He hesitates to call his menu seasonal, because the concept of “seasonal” doesn’t always go hand in hand with being budget-conscious.
“We just see what’s available and go with that. I don’t want to pay exorbitant prices. That way I can keep prices reasonable for customers,” he says.
Then there are the extra traditions that Siu has instituted at 3660 that regulars have come to love. The staff puts on a monthly Chef’s Table dinner that entails one seating in the banquet room. They also offer cooking demonstrations every other month that have Siu taking the helm at a cooktop with mirrors so everyone can watch his technique. The 55-seat event has become so popular, it now runs two days instead of just one. “We do the demo, serve the food and
also feature a wine pairing,” says Siu, explaining why 40 percent of attendees are regulars.
But the audience isn’t just there to partake of the food and wine, he says. Everyone takes home recipes, and many take notes and often “rush to the front” to get a better view. Siu calls it good fun.
“People make jokes and we have a great time. Then they go home and try it themselves,” he says. “It makes me feel
good, so I tell them to call me at the restaurant if they’ve got questions.”
Those personal touches are clearly a big part of why Siu remains top of mind among Honolulu’s restaurant-goers.
Recommended: Tempura Farm-Raised Catfish, More Than Meatloaf, Pan-Seared Hatcho Miso-Glazed Scallops, Pudding on a Whim
3660 Waialae Ave., Kaimuki; 737-1177; www.3660.com. Dinner (closed Mondays). $$$
–Chosen by readers of the Honolulu Star-Advertiser