Rosemary garlic pork tenderloin served in a Chinese bun with hoisin and scallions is one the appetizers at Chef Chai restaurant in the Pacifica Building.
Photo by Bruce Asato / basato@staradvertiser.com
BY JASON GENEGABUS / jason@staradvertiser.com
It’s always fun to discover a new spot for late-night happy hour. Some might see an idle bartender and empty bar as an invitation to go elsewhere, but I see a blank canvas waiting for taste-makers to transform the space into a must-visit night-life destination.
Chef Chai
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That’s what’s going on at Chef Chai, the new restaurant launched by Chai Chaowasaree to replace longtime local favorite Chai’s Island Bistro. (He still owns and operates Singha Thai in Waikiki.)
Fans of Hawaiian music would plan their weeks around dinner with Chaowasaree at Aloha Tower Marketplace, thanks to an all-star lineup of local musicians like the Brothers Cazimero, Jake Shimabukuro, Melveen Leed and Willie K.
Hiring all that talent got expensive, however, and Chaowasaree wanted to go in a more healthful direction with his cuisine. So he declined to renew his lease at Aloha Tower and closed the bistro on New Year’s Eve, opening Chef Chai at the new Pacifica condominium on Kapiolani Boulevard three months later.
The new restaurant has a more modern aesthetic, with the main dining room and adjacent private dining room separated from the entrance by a 10-seat bar. While Chai’s Island Bistro was a place to go with co-workers or family members for large-scale celebrations, Chef Chai is more suitable for date night or a special-occasion meal — unless you’re there after 9 p.m. for happy hour, that is.
Fresh Ahi Tartare is served in bite-sized Mini Waffle Cones.
Photo by Bruce Asato / basato@staradvertiser.com
After most customers have finished their meals, the bar shifts gears to offer discounted beers and cocktails, plus a relatively long list of happy-hour pupu in generous portions. You’re not forced to sit at the bar, either; happy-hour prices and menu items are available throughout the restaurant, including an outdoor seating area along Kapiolani that’s going to be perfect for pre-gaming during the winter months when nights cool off a bit.
CHAOWASAREE was pretty ambitious last year when he announced his plans, promising “no butter at my new restaurant” and that “moderation is key” to maintaining a healthy lifestyle. Happy-hour food choices appear to reflect this pledge with items like Steamed Clams with Lemongrass, Kaffir Lime Leaves and Sake ($8), Naked Squid or Shrimp Salad with Lemongrass Garlic Dressing ($7) and Puna Goat Cheese Wontons with cucumber, teardrop tomato, onion, cilantro and watercress topped with fresh mango and sun-dried tomato salsa ($7).
If moderation is key, sharing is necessary as plates carry more than enough food for one person.
The Fresh Ahi Tartare in Mini Waffle Cones ($8) arrives with eight pieces per order; although each one is the perfect size for popping into your mouth, you’ll be ready to move on to the next dish after just two or three bites. The Fresh Oysters on Ice with Lemongrass Garlic Mignonette ($10) is another dish worth ordering, but only if you have someone to share it with.
I’m told happy hour at Chef Chai’s has been hit-or-miss so far, with the biggest crowds showing up when there is something going on at nearby Blaisdell Arena or Blaisdell Concert Hall. I think that’s just because nobody has figured out this place is a perfect option for those heading to Dave & Buster’s on a Wednesday night, Addiction Nightclub on a Thursday night or Chinatown on the weekends. Make sure you’ve got a designated driver — or a taxi company on speed dial — and you can get properly lubricated at Chef Chai’s with plenty of cheap drinks and quality food before moving on to your next stop of the evening.
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Jason Genegabus is Entertainment Editor/Online at the Star-Advertiser.